Menswear Style Podcast

Sam Carew, Co-Founder of Elliott Footwear / Carbon Positive Sneakers

December 01, 2021 Menswear Style Episode 150
Menswear Style Podcast
Sam Carew, Co-Founder of Elliott Footwear / Carbon Positive Sneakers
Show Notes Transcript

Meet elliott, the footwear brand with a climate agenda reinventing the footwear industry. They're taking sustainability to the next level with upcycled, vegan, and 100% cruelty-free products with a climate-positive impact. Founded in Copenhagen, elliott footwear is a brand with a minimalistic approach to style and impact on the planet. The brand was born out of a desperate need to act and a heart for environmental change. Following extensive research and implementation, elliott launched the world's first climate positive sneaker collection in September 2018 and has since become a member of the UNFCCC climate change initiative. Inspired by Danish design, global art, elegant architecture and contemporary culture, they combine ready-to-wear everyday footwear with climate action and a continued journey towards a sustainable profile.

In this episode of the MenswearStyle Podcast we interview Sam Carew, Co-Founder of elliott footwear about his background and how the world's first climate positive footwear brand was launched. Our host Peter Brooker and Sam talk about the carbon cost of making shoes, climate anxiety, sustainability and minimalist design, crowdfunding success, manufacturing, the importance of footwear in men's style, and what the future holds for the brand.

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Hello, and welcome to another episode of the menswear style podcast. I'm your host Pete Brooker and today I'm talking to Sam Kuru, one of the co founders for Elliot footwear, elite footwear founded in Copenhagen, and they are a brand with a minimalist approach to style and impact on the planet. They were born out of a desperate need to act and created with a heart for environmental change. following extensive research and implementation, they launched the world's first climate positive sneakers election in September 2018. And we're going to get into that now what is climate positive? Here is Sam Karu to talk about the brand, Elliot footwear, in his own words, I'm Sam. Elliot footwear is the world's first climate positive sneaker brand. So in essence, we're the first people to tie climate action to, I guess, a footwear brand. So we sell sustainable footwear to anybody that will buy. And then we offset one metric tonne of co2 emissions for every pair of shoes that we sell. Which sounds complicated, but what we do is that we partner with climate climate partners to be able to allow us to make that claim. And it's a it's a really interesting space we're in now, because we have you know, we currently grow a brand, but also have a very cognizant eye on on climate change and how it's gonna affect the world, but definitely the footwear industry. And tell me about what is climate positive? Maybe you can just start there. Yeah, okay. Good site. Climate positive is word is a term we've latched on to some people use common carbon negative. And we prefer to err on the side of positive Euro climate glass half full. Yeah, exactly. So in essence, what we do is that there's a there's a climate cost to everything you create. And we did some analysis, right, the Genesis earlier to work out what the combat carbon cost of creating a parachute is. And in our particular scenario, it was just under 200 kilogrammes. I wonder if is, you know, you know, speaking to other footwear partners in another brand in the future in the past, we found that maybe the analysis was quite high. But I wonder if that's because we typically run with small runs of, of shoes, rather than creating 1000s of pairs. So the first one was 1200 pairs. So maybe the calculation is slightly higher because of the number of Chivas creating and the carbon cost of a pair of Eliot's like we've worked out to be just under 200 grammes and then we offset one metric tonne, which is just is over five times the amount of the carbon cost of creating a pair shoes. That's why we we use a term carbon positive. So in essence, we making a positive impact on on the footwear industry, really. So we have a scenario where other brands, so for example, other brands can have a range of between seven and maybe like 18 kilogrammes for their cost of the carbon costs of the creating issues. And then they tried to be carbon neutral by offsetting that same amount. How are you typically? Sorry, so I tend to I'm just wondering, how are you offsetting something if you're making something can you just tell me about the ingredients going into the equation? Okay, so, um, we use for different three, three different products in our shoes for different products. So a recycled 70% recycled rubber for the soles on all our shoes. We tried looking at 100% recycled rubber, and we found that the product wouldn't last as long as we would hope it to. So we we, from analysis, we look at owning a pair of shoes for a minimum of two years if you're wearing everyday, which people typically don't tend to do that number. Lots of times people have more than one pair of shoes so they don't have to wear one specific shoe for that vintage So if you wear a pair of shoes, a pair of Elliot's for every day, it should last you a couple of years. But if we had used a fully 100% recycled rubber, then we wouldn't have been able to take a claim like that. Because it would, it would have been quite brittle. So and then we use a recycled cat recycled Canvas for two styles, the canvas low and the canvas hightop both use recycled canvas. And then we use a vegan leather, which in itself is a contradiction in itself. And a vegan swayed to create two other styles. And both those are polymers, which we're cognizant of, in the desire to use less plastics going forward. So as a organisation, we made the decision to start with start here. And then the idea is that future generations of our shoes, hopefully, hopefully the next generation, or at least the next generation after that will be plastic free. Nice. Okay. So you've been going for years, maybe we can just dial back to the start, how did you raise the capital? And what was what were you kind of doing before this that, you know, influenced your decision to start the brand. So I saw two original founders that we have is a gentleman called Mikko and another guy called Lars who went to school together, both of them from Denmark, both living in Copenhagen at the time. You know, like most good founder stories, they were having a beer having a catching up having to catch up. And, and I think Laos had been going through a bit of climate and it it's a, I guess, a term that's coming up quite regularly now where, you know, he just had just had his first child thinking of, you know, what the future looks like? And with climate change, how would we have a feature for her to put here fridge for her to look forward to me clothes are creative? And I guess just two and two together clothes, clothing, network clothing brands seem really, really difficult. And it's only when you're in the footwear brand that you realise it's not that difficult. Right? And yeah, so clothing seemed really difficult time footwear, to, you know, Lazarus, climate anxiety kind of, you know, came up with this, the idea of that is earlier. And then they reached out to me to say, you know, how can we help grow it we aspire to be, you know, to be a big brand brand that people recognise. And they reached out to me to ask if I can help do that. And what were your skills? I mean, why in particular, do you think they reached out to you, sir? Good question. Ironically, I have zero knowledge of footwear. I've never worked in the footwear industry. But I guess my strength is and I'm a good connector, I guess I like to talk to people. Um, I love a lot of people in general. And I'm able just to kind of connect people together. That's, and yeah, felt like it's, you know, I was going through some stuff myself, I'd been working in a large consultancy, and they were 35 people when I first started and they grew to about 600 people while I was there, looking after their IT department. And I went in to see my boss to say, we need a new staff and he informed me that they were actually going to get get me a new boss. And as you can imagine, I wasn't best pleased. And I guess it just felt like a time to to make a move. Okay, making move. So coincided with the conversation with laws. I left I left the firm had no job to go to. And so I literally just dived into Elliot just decided to make it. Everything that I could do. This is a leap of faith for you, but I mean, been going for years. Do you think it's paid off? Yeah, Gosh, 100%. I'm still not working full time when Going on earlier, it's the desire to do so in the future. So I've still got a day job. But in terms of how it's going, it's, it's amazing to the opportunities that I've been able to. And this is one of the things that I'm really passionate about. Nobody would have given me an opportunity to do something like this, because I've never done anything like this before. And a lot of times people are, you know, this closed, mind closed minded to thinking as other people as whole entity is rather than just something they do for a job. Yeah, no, that. No, so I turned up, yes. It's quite easy to pigeonhole people. And we like to do that we like to put people in their place, because that's how we can process them. Understand them. Yes. Like, Sammy, you mentioned that you're an IT guy, great. You build websites or graphic design, I know where to put you in my rolodex of in my file cabinet in my mind. And then when something comes up as an idea for a footwear brand, I could perhaps just go somewhere else. Yeah, you can't. It's it, it's more, it's more of a calorie burner for people to try and attach different things to you. They're kind of they can't compute that someone might have different skills, or areas of interest other than what they might say on their LinkedIn profile. Yeah, yeah, that's exactly, exactly. And for me, now, this has been an opportunity to do something wildly different. To be able to grow in an area that I would never have had the opportunity to, nobody would have given me a job, you know, looking after the growth of a company, or nobody would have given me the opportunity to start a company, you know, to be leading a company. But I'm doing it, man, it's been, it's been just just under three years. Wow. Well, congrats make that I should just say, for the people that aren't watching, because this isn't on YouTube, my lights just gone out. So Sam is now talking to one side of my face that's lit in the dark. So we'll crack on. And, Sam, talk to me a little bit about the design, if you will. So it's a very minimalistic cool back design. And people can find the designs on Elliot footwear.com. And we'll leave links over in the show notes Elliott with two T's. Does the sustainability and the ingredients that go into making the trainers, do they kind of influence how the trainers have to look ultimately? Yeah, I'm in our specific instance right now. Yes. We would, if we had decided to radically change the design of the shoe, then it would have probably influence the cost of the development? And how would we would have got started. So inaud, like you asked earlier, raising the capital for Elliot, started off with myself and my, one of the other co founders laws. And we then were able to create, you know, do the design process, create the shoes, create the brand, the aesthetics, shoot some videos, and then we launched it on Indiegogo in June of 2019. And I guess, then it was out in the world. So out in the wild, as they say. So we then got to, you're able to raise about $30,000 on Indiegogo, which paid for the first batch of shoes. And then now we're in the process of selling out those pairs of shoes, and then designing what I call episode two of Elliot shoes. And that should be hopefully out. April 2022. Nice. And what do you put the campaign the success of the campaign down to? So you've raised you say 30 grand. Yeah. So that I think we put it down to the minimalist design. We it it's sort of design that appeals to I'd say most people, the most people could wear a pair of Eliot's and be okay. You know, it's you know, very simplistic style, very minimalist design. So, you know, they would very much transition between smart Wear and casual wear? And because they unisex every appeal to what? Pretty much anybody, anyone who likes that sort of styling? Was Was there any incentive for people to get in early on the campaign's? Yeah. So when we had, we had the first batch of shoes on the campaign selling it at $9. Right. And now they retail ads 101 99 299 and 149. Retail Prices are okay. But they, you know, typically, though, the reason why you have such high markups is you create recreated a smaller run of shoes. So typically, brands, some brands start off with, like, you know, between five and 10,000 pairs of shoes, we started off with 1200. And so we have a small run of shoes, we have a, you know, limited, we had a two month period on Indiegogo to be able to raise that amount of capital, okay. And be able to raise as much capital as you can, on in that two month period where the shoe is made. So, so between Spain and Vietnam, the we worked with an agent based in Vietnam, in in Spain, who helped with the the actual, the technical development of the shoes, and then also a man made in, in Vietnam as well. And have you had a chance to go over to the factories and see them? How do you get your hands on the prototypes and see the process? Yeah, so good question we had. Because, as you can imagine, there's been some, you know, notoriety about the footwear industry in Asia, we actually sent one of our own photographers to the factory, to just kind of be our eyes and ears. As a brand, we try to operate in a way that can use the least amount of carbon footprint as we can. So the idea of, you know, sending, you know, three of the founders on a plane to Vietnam didn't sit well. And then, you know, 2920 20 obviously much happened. And then No, no flying anyway. Right? And so we had a Yes, oh, yeah, we had a photographer, go out there. Take images of the factories, the process, how the shoes are created, the state of state of employees data of the factory, how it treated as employees, and then report back to us. And we've felt, obviously, we, you know, try and do your due diligence as much as you can when you're working with agents to find a reputable factory, but seen as it was the first our first experience, we wanted to just double check that we had we were comfortable with who we were being confused with. And are they okay with you going in and taking photos? Because I mean, I know especially, I mean, you're in Northampton, we were just talking offline. The likes of name your shoe, your shoe company comes out in Northampton. I'm sure everyone can name one. They won't let any tours go. And they won't let anybody into the in terms of taking photos and stuff like that. Because obviously this is very private for them. They don't want to get imitated in any way or anything like that. The the factory in Vietnam, they're okay with you guys coming in and taking photos. While they were actually I guess it was one of our stipulations of working with them. You know, as you can imagine the tonnes of manufacturers globally. And you can you get to decide who you want to work with. And it was one of our criteria to be able to be quite confident of who we're working with. And are you going back to them for Episode Two? I like the thing, by the way, people normally go for seasons, but I think episodes sounds like you've got more in the tank. Yeah, yeah. So, um, bears more in the tank. You know, the desire for me is to be a global brand globally recognised brand, a brand that people if I'm honest, I give me my my my thinking of climate change and how it's going to be hopefully resolved. I think there's going to be a introduction Have some sort of carbon tax on products. So and that would be able to fund offset projects like we do. And, and, you know, hopefully help move the needle towards, you know, a better temperature. And if that happens, then we may lose our unique selling point. So we still have to be able to create amazing looking shoes that stand the test of time. That goes beyond climate change. So it's very much in a desire to create shoes that are still more you choose them because they're amazing. And it's additional benefit that they're carbon positive. How do you think your lose your unique selling point? Is that because more people will be looking to do what you guys do to avoid the car? Well, I? Yeah, I actually, maybe I just hope they will do what we do. Yeah. Because if, if they do, then we I will to make a change in in, in the impact. Right, if more people do what we do, and I guess we welcome them to do the same. Then there'll be a big, you know, so for example, in 2018, mighty created, I think it was just over 300 million pairs of shoes. So if they were offsetting a tonne of co2 emissions for every pears they sold, will be now be in a very different place. Well, I mean, so what has to happen for tax to be introduced is this, it would have to be a universal tax, right, with every country signing onto it. I'd imagine. Yeah. In actual fact it. Yeah, possibly. I mean, that's probably the bit that's really difficult to see, you know, to envision that happening. There's only I think COVID is only really been the one time where you've had unifying countries really working towards one goal. I don't think we've seen anything like it prior. And if climate change is a is something that you know, cop 26 highlighted the desire, I guess, to to make a real dent in this. Yeah, it used to be like, if you grew up watching films like me, the only thing that would unite countries would be like alien invasions. And then you'd flash to the people with the government in China or the government over in the UK, like, well, what are we going to do to pull together to beat these guys? And that'd be the only time we didn't rally. But in lieu of a alien invasion, we have to have a virus that wipes out 500 million. Yeah, interesting. So, but climate change is something that we can all look at, well, a lot of countries, not all of them have looked towards and said something about this. And so let's take a seat at the table. Well, Sam, I guess you have to now really have your head in trainers. Well, I guess, you know, pretty much everything that goes on with the anatomy of trainers. I mean, was this also like in the last few years as it's been quite a learning curve for you in terms of terms of this brand? Yeah, completely. So I've got a lady working with me who's got a history of working with dogs and Puma and she did some stuff with Nike at the minute. And some other small independent brands, brands fitflop. And she can tell you, like, you know, you look at a trainer, you can Okay, like if there's a so there's a tongue, but there's so many different parts of the trainer and she's able to kind of dissect all those things. So it's been a massive learning curve for me. Learning what all of these parts are called for the start. What they and I don't I couldn't even still telling you all of them right now. But yeah, it's a massive learning curve. Just you know, I went to a testing centre recently showing how the, you know how shoes are tested, you know, for durability for temperature. So, this particular company, setser, they test the technology they create, they were the ones that created the first patch Use that went on the expedition to Everest. So, you know, I can't imagine how many years ago that was. But, you know, you saw the break, you know, they had the pair in the, in the, in the research office, and we had a cut through the pair of the shoe, seeing the lining how the shoe was constructed, it's technically brilliant. Actually, brilliant. So, there's a lot, you know, it's been a massive learning curve for me just getting my head around shoes, how they created the sampling process. The the way, you know, the way you test things before you have, you know, before the materials are made before they're cut. Yeah, it's a massive learning curve, but it's been really fun. Yeah, yeah, the works of art really, when you get to see all the photos packed as it were with with you. And also, I guess you're now if you if you weren't before, just really noticing what people were on their feet, right. So my girlfriend says, I had this conversation with her once I said, What do you see in a dude first, when you're like looking at a dude walking down the street? What is it that typically women seeing without missing a beat? She goes trainers, shoes, wherever, you know, whatever, it's on their feet. That's the first thing you clog. And then it's height. So the two things neither of which I'm doing for my girlfriend, but anyway, that's another that's another day. Yeah, I would say like, what do you think of my mate would be able to pay? He goes, Well, he he has shoes that you bought in the 80s and will last clean in the 90s I didn't match like him. You know, so leave. She's very much focused on on feet. So it's amazing how, how much it says about a person, isn't it? I always think that about shoes in particular to uh, you now have that mind? Yeah, I'm constantly looking at people's feet. Now maybe the desire to see a pair of Eliot's on on someone. I don't know. Oh, yeah, that'll be the day. Yeah, arriving? That'd be you know, you've arrived in life if you if you just pass. Yeah. And so that, but constantly just really taken aback by people's shoes and, like, because it's, I guess a decide, describes a little bit about them. Right? Because it's a choice, which what you decide to wear in your feet is a choice. And with, you typically have less shoes than you have clothes. So you have to probably choose your shoes more wisely. Yeah. But yeah, I'm always always always always looking at people's shoes now and what they're wearing. Yes. So that's a problem. I often think living in London when I see people on the train, I look at their trainers or their shoes. And if I see a dude wearing white trainers in particular, and they're immaculate, I often think this guy is taking care of himself in more ways than one like his you know, it's not just a fluke that he's just got really clean white trainers. He's like he's looking after that his house is probably tidy his car is probably spotless, you know, I mean, because that takes extra effort especially living in the city to keep white midsoles clean and so I actually bought a pair of white trainers especially in cleaners pretty much religiously every time I get them back because I want that to be this I want that to be something that I can use to communicate to other people as I do pay mine on and I do look after myself yeah cuz I think that's a that's a good tell. Yeah, maybe I think I need to funnily enough I've got the late I only wear Elliott's typically now. So I've got the navy blue pair that you can tell but they've been you know, it's easier to keep those clean and then oh, God tell me why trainers because I have also pigeonpea so I can walk in words I try and sort it out when I'm walking but you know, when your mind wanders your feet, my feet especially clunk together so the inside of the midsole so the first thing to go they get knackered, so keeping them clean is an extra, extra added workout for me. But funny thing is you say that in like, you know my grandma had, like Joseph pointed in with Yeah, you kind of walk in with quite an endearing trait to me in a weird way. That's good. Yeah, if you see me walking down the street, then you'll be like, Oh, I wonder if this guy's a nice guy. Yeah, this guy's All right by me. Yeah, let's go for a coffee. Oh, Sam, listen, thanks so much for taking time out during the day as well. For jumping on the podcast and talking about Elliot footwear again, website Elliott footwear.com. The place people can go and find an By the way, very excessively priced trainers were talking about, you know how you put in all the effort to make them sustainable and climate positive, etc. You'd think that would come with a more hefty price tag but not the case. People where people where can people find you on the social media, Sam? So we are we typically on Instagram like most other brands, Instagram, Facebook, that's typically where we where we roll, Elliot footwear, Elliot footwear. All one word, two L's and two T's like two feet. Great. Go and check them out. And also we'll leave all the links in the show notes over at menswear style dot code at UK. Sam, thanks so much for coming on. Thanks, Peter. Have a great day. You too. You've been listening to the menswear style podcast be sure to head over to menswear style dot code at uk for more menswear content and email info at menswear style dot code at UK if you'd like to be a future guest on the show. Finally, please help support the show by leaving a review on iTunes or wherever you're listening to this podcast. Until next time

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